GEOGRAPHY
MODERN DAY CAMBODIA, at 181 035 square kilometers, is only a small portion of the once mighty Khmer Empire, which ruled much of the surrounding countries of Vietnam, Laos and Thailand as we know them today. Cambodia is dominated by the Mekong River and the Tonle Sap (Great Lake), and has three main mountainous regions:

The Elephant and Cardamom mountains in the south-west, the Dangreik Mountains along the northern border with Thailand, and the Eastern Highlands in the north-eastern corner. While the peace in Cambodia is young, the country is relatively stable, and is attracting the tourism currently sweeping neighboring Vietnam.

Capital & Major Centers - Phnom Penh, the capital, has a population of around three million people and, despite its tumultuous past, its crumbling colonial architecture makes an attractive backdrop to street side cafés and the redeveloped waterfront precinct.

Peaceful Udong, 40 kilometers north of Phnom Penh, was the capital of Cambodia between 1618 and 1866. The town of Siem Reap is only a few kilometers from the temples of Angkor.

The People
Cambodians are friendly and warm. Around 90-95 percent of the 13.6 million people are ethnic Khmers who speak Khmer, a non-tonal language closely related to Thai. French is the second language, while English is taught in schools. The balance of the population comprises ethnic Chinese, Vietnamese and Cham Muslims. A form of Buddhism called Theravada is practiced by approximately 95 percent of Cambodians. Animism and Caodaism are also practiced.

History
Cambodia’s rich history reaches back to the kingdom of Funan, which played a vital role in developing institutions, culture and art of later Khmer states from the 1st to 6th centuries. However, the Angkorian era, which began in the 8th century, transformed the kingdom into a religious and artistic power.

The Cambodian monarchy dates from King Jayavarman II who founded his capital near Angkor. However, the Khmer empire reached its zenith during the reigns of Suryavarman II (the builder of Angkor Wat), and King Jayavarman VII, a Buddhist and the builder of the Bayon temple and 100 hospitals throughout the kingdom.

In 1864, Cambodia became a French protectorate, remaining under French
control until the Japanese took over during World War II. The French returned after the war and installed King Norodom Sihanouk who launched a campaign for independence, which was finally achieved in 1953.

Twenty years later and the country experienced continual warfare and violence under the genocidal regime of Pol Pot’s Khmer Rouge, who was reported to have killed at least two million Cambodians.

The regime targeted those considered intellectual or well educated, in an attempt to create a self- sufficient, peasant-dominated agricultural state. Following the death of Pol Pot in 1998, Cambodia is struggling to emerge as a viable tourist destination and Phnom Penh is issuing increasing numbers of visas.

Nature
The number of national parks (seven) is slowly growing, but illegal logging
has long been a problem. Parks include Bokor, on the south coast; Ream, near Sihanouk Ville; Kirirom, outside Phnom Penh; and Virachay, bordering Laos and Vietnam. Endangered species which are elsewhere extinct are thought to be hidden in the more remote habitats, including elephants, tigers, leopards, gibbons, bats, rhinos and crocodiles. Butterflies, snakes and birds such as cormorants, cranes and ducks are most common.

The Sights
The vast and awe-inspiring Angkor Wat, a magnificent Hindu temple set in dense jungle, is located 152 kilometers from the Thai border, at Siem Reap. Angkor Wat is the world’s largest temple complex, consisting of sandstone temples, chapels, causeways, terraces and reservoirs. The walls are covered in thousands of carvings of gods and events from classical Hindu mythology.

The Wat was abandoned in the 15th century as the people turned to Buddhism, rediscovered in 1861 and subsequently restored by the French, who were forced to leave during the Khmer uprising in the 1970s.Since the 1980s, Cambodians and Indian archaeologists have continued to restore the temple, now considered an important national symbol.

Other ancient temples of significance include Bayon, which has more than 50 towers and 170 carvings of giant faces, and Ta Prohm, a few kilometres from Siem Reap. The Royal Palace in Phnom Penh is the official residence of King Norodom Sihamoni and is open to the public. The spectacular Silver Pagoda, also known as the Pagoda of the Emerald Buddha, is one of the few places in Cambodia where artifacts embodying the brilliance of Khmer culture were preserved by the Khmer Rouge.

Also worth seeing is the Independence Monument, inaugurated in 1958 to celebrate Cambodia’s independence from foreign rule, and Wat Phnom, an active temple dating back to 1372 that marks the founding place of Phnom Penh. The National Museum of Khmer Art and Archaeology is another highlight, with outstanding displays of Khmer crafts.

The Killing Fields of Choeung Ek are a disturbing reminder of the atrocities committed by the Khmer Rouge. Some 17 000 people were killed here, just 15kms southwest of the city centre. More than 8000 skulls, arranged by sex and age, are visible behind the glass panel of the Memorial Stupa, erected in 1988.

Sihanouk Ville, also known as Kampong Som, is situated on the south coast, and is Cambodia’s only maritime port. It boasts great beaches including Ocheuteal Beach and Independence Beach, and its reefs teem with fish, making boat trips to nearby islands for snorkelling popular. The area has been earmarked for tourist development. Take a boat trip to the pleasant old colonial town on the river.

Kampong Cham It features 10th century ruins and interesting pagodas.

Battambang also has beautiful old French colonial architecture.

Where To Stay
Hotels of international standard are available in Phnom Penh and Siem Reap, and Sihanouk Ville is growing in popularity as it's the only beach resort destination in Cambodia at present and tourist facilities are fast being developed there. The general increase in tourism in Cambodia has led to a boom in guesthouse accommodation ranging from budget to basic, however there are no camping facilities for tourists.

Getting Around
Flying is the quickest but most expensive way to get to places such as Angkor, Battambang, Koh Kong, Ratanakiri and Stung Treng. Road travel is safer than it has been, but travelling by bus can be hard on the body. Train travel is the longer but more comfortable option. Trucks and jeeps tackle the roads to Siem Reap, Battambang and Kratie, and share-taxis scoot around the south coast. Boats play a major role, with the most popular services operating between Phnom Penh and Siem Reap.

Fast boats also head up the Mekong to Kompong Cham, Kratie and Stung Treng. An effective local bus network makes travel to sights around Phnom Penh much easier than driving, although cars can be hired with a driver. Taxis are more common in the cities these days, and Tuk Tuk (three-wheeled motor cycles) cyclos and motos (small motorcycles) can be flagged down for short trips.

Food & Entertainment
Khmer cuisine is similar to Thai, incorporating mint, coriander and lemongrass but with fewer spices. Grilled freshwater fish, wrapped in lettuce or spinach and dipped into a nutty fish sauce, is a particular specialty. Desserts include sticky rice cakes and jackfruit pudding.

There is a growing number of good restaurants, including Thai, Chinese, Indian, Malay and Western, both in the capital and in towns that attract tourists. There are also sidewalk noodle shops, food stalls and markets, although it is wise to avoid eating or drinking from street vendors. The influence of the French is manifest in the breads and frogs’ legs sold in the markets, and tea and coffee are also widely available. Tap water and ‘muscle wines’ are best avoided.

International standard discos and bars are mainly found in the major hotels and some up market restaurants are also night-spots. The pubs along the riverfront in Phnom Penh are popular, and movies are shown at the French Cultural Centre and the International Youth Club.

Since the Khmer Rouge sought to destroy much of the culture of Cambodia and killed artists and performers, it is difficult to find any type of cultural performance in Cambodia today. An interest in traditional culture, along with painting, music, dance and theatre is quickly resurfacing.

Sovanna Phum is an independent and self-financed Khmer association working at the forefront of performing arts in Cambodia.

Activities
Tourism in Cambodia is still in its infancy, which generally limits activities to sightseeing. There is snorkeling in Sihanouk Ville, and limited trekking and elephant rides in Ratanakiri and Mondulkiri, but you need a guide, as landmines, bandits, and other dangers make hiking, outdoor activities, or venturing off the beaten track dangerous. Leisure activities in Phnom Penh include go-karting, jet-skiing, mini golf and ten pin bowling.

Similarly, there are few opportunities for sports. The National Olympic Stadium (an indoor stadium) and the old stadium in Phnom Penh offer some facilities, but the best form of exercise is probably renting a bicycle from your hotel or travel agent. A network of national parks is being established, complete with visitor facilities; Kirirom, Ream and Bokor on the south coast are the most accessible and interesting.

Shopping
The New Market in Phnom Penh is filled with gold and silver jewellery shops, antique coins and imitation designer watches. For souvenirs, Tuol Tom Pong Market in the south of town is best. You’ll also find the distinctive Cambodian checked cotton scarves called ‘Kramas’.

The National Centre for Disabled Persons has a shop called NCDP Handicrafts which sells very well-made silk and leather bags, slippers, Kramas, wallets and notebooks. Visit Phnom Penh’s tailors and cobblers for custom-made clothes and shoes, or various other little shops for silver, wood carvings and other curios.